Posted on: April 27, 2013
Since A. Wong opened in an unpromising location in Victoria, it has hardly flown under the radar. The FoodVerdicts database lists 11 expert reviews, of which 8 YAYs, which mostly praise the creative Chinese dishes served up in the 8 course ‘Taste of China’ menu as well as on the dim sum menu (available to order as single pieces – a relief if you were always too polite to snatch that last xiao long bao).
But this weekend, A. Wong won the jackpot of restaurant reviews – praise from two of the most influential critics in the business – Marina O’Loughlin (Guardian)
Posted on: April 9, 2013
There is a question mark in the title because we simply don’t believe that anyone in search of gourmet food would need to leave London. But maybe it’s time to reconsider.
Giles Coren went to The French in Manchester and said, “I’d walk to Manchester barefoot in the rain for one more mouthful of the chopped raw ribeye of ox in coal oil” in his review this weekend. The French at Midland Hotel has just been taken over by Simon Rogan of L’Enclume in the Lake District and Roganic in London and it sounds like he’s cooking up a storm. The FT’s Natalie Whittle writes
Posted on: March 12, 2013
On his blog ‘Gastroville’, Hedone chef patron Mikael Jonsson gives a fascinating glimpse into how he experienced the first 18 months of his Chiswick restaurant, Hedone. He writes refreshingly frank and insightful about his experiences of restaurant critics, most of which he didn’t recognise when they visited his restaurant.
Hedone enjoyed a stunning reception, as Jonsson recalls: “After only a couple of weeks we got 4 stars from Fay Maschler and 5 stars from Time Out. Then great reviews in FT, Guardian, Metro and later in New York Times. I was stunned by the influence
Posted on: March 2, 2013
In these tough times, food reviews don’t always have to be about fine dining.
[Financial Times / The Independent]
Posted on: February 22, 2013
After a recent talk to visiting New Yorkers, Nicholas Lander’s published this ode to London’s restaurant scene (behind the FT paywall unfortunately). He praises the diversity of culinary London (and East London in particular) and highlights Ottolenghi, Coya, Rasoi and others as examples.
Posted on: February 13, 2013
For the Guardian’s Word of Mouth blog, Jennifer Ah-Kin lets us take a peek into the life of a restaurant critic.
It’s certainly not an easy job to come by – according to The Observer’s food critic Jay Rayner, being a dedicated foodie is not enough: “My job is to write, not to know stuff about food (though, being a greedy man, I do know a lot).”
Even though newspaper budgets are under increasing pressure, Guardian food critic Marina O’Loughlin is upbeat about the outlook for expert reviewers: ”I’d say it has a lifespan beyond the much-touted
Posted on: January 23, 2013
But maybe the Times captures Michael Winner’s inimitable spirit best with the publication of his last column and a few quotes from Winner’s Dinners past, including this gem from a review of Alain Ducasse at The Dorchester:
“The waiter, referring to the first course, asked, “How was it?”
“You’ll have to read about it,” I replied. “We’re sworn by professional etiquette
Posted on: January 21, 2013
The Guardian restaurant critic Marina O’Loughlin professes her love for the ‘Golden Oldies’ in an article for the Civilian. Instead of frantic chasing of the new, she cherishes the old-fashioned:
“There’s nothing worse than, say, a restaurant in a small South Tyrolean town that’s desperate to be seen as one of the cool kids: it’s like the rich tourist who hits London and tricks herself up in head-to-toe Burberry check. Combine this with a desire for Michelin recognition, and the whole shebang becomes about as much fun as a night out with Piers Morgan”
Posted on: January 18, 2013
Ahead of the much-anticipated opening of New York import Balthazar, the Observer’s restaurant critic Jay Rayner looks at what defines a true brasserie. He consults with Daniel Young, former critic and food event impresario (youngandfoodish.com‘s BurgerMondays and more), who has written a book on the topic.
Young has devised a 20-point checklist, and describes that if “there is a continuous food offering throughout the day, fast service, tablecloths, uniformed waiters carrying trays, draft beers – a marker of their origins as 19th-century microbreweries
Posted on: January 10, 2013
While food blogger and FoodVerdicts favourite Hugh Wright has predicted his 2013 trends in our exclusive feature, we summarise in this article last year’s good (and not so great) restaurant experiences of critics and bloggers.
To crown the hottest restaurants of 2012, food blogger Picky Glutton measures which of her reviews have received most clicks. The top spots are taken by lobster rolls battles (Hawksmoor vs Burger & Lobster) and indie burgers (high ratings for: Burger & Lobster and Honest Burgers) – burgers in fact feature twice in her top 10 most-read posts.