Chiltern Firehouse scores with restaurant critics
Posted on: March 22, 2014
When Chiltern Street Hotel opened early this year, it had all the right ingredients: location (in a beautiful old fire station in Marylebone), pedigree (hotelier Andre Balazs’ portfolio includes US hotels The Mercer, The Standard and Chateau Marmont) and – most intriguingly, in Chiltern Firehouse a restaurant for which chef Nuno Mendes was willing to leave his celebrated East London restaurant Viajante.
Early buzz about Chiltern Firehouse focused on a models-and-oligarchs-heavy clientele and the difficulty of scoring a reservation. It wasn’t unreasonable then to expect London’s restaurant critics to reassure us that we weren’t missing out.
Alas, no such luck. Looking through early critic reviews, we find Fay Maschler describing dishes buzzing with unexpected flavours and superb desserts. Time Out’s Guy Dimond sees his expectations “greatly exceeded” and awards five stars, and Giles Coren simply knows ”that there is nowhere else in London, probably the world, where you ought to be”.
It’s hard to find dissenters in this flood of positive early restaurant reviews. We’ll have to make do with AA Gill’s assertion that “the ceiling appears to be made out of the bottom of large beds”.
See for yourself – our FoodVerdicts profile of Chiltern Firehouse aggregates all the expert reviews as they come in. And follow us on twitter to find out about the next big restaurant opening or rediscovered hidden gem.
[Picture: Chiltern Street]
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